Wine & Spirits 96 points - Istvan Szepsy is one of the most respected winemakers in Tokaj, a man who produced wine throughout the Communist era both in a cooperative and in his own artisan winery. He went on to launch Kiralyudvar with Anthony Hwang of Domaine Huet, where he and winemaker Zoltan Demeter pioneered the concept of a high-quality dry furmint. His own 2008 from the revered Szent Tamas vineyard shows how far this idea has come. It has the noblesse of a grand old Burgundy with a distinctly furmint flavor, smoky and peppery with a limey edge. The acidity moves trippingly through the stony flavor, firming the wine even while keeping it agile and lively. As it lasts, the flavors go deeper, as if reaching through layers of volcanic soil. It will last well another decade at least, although it’d be delicious now with roast sweetbreads and bacon.